Where it sits
Preah Sihanouk occupies the country’s south-western shoulder, named for King Norodom Sihanouk and built around the only deep-water port Cambodia has. Offshore lie Koh Rong, Koh Rong Sanloem, Koh Ta Kiev and a scatter of smaller islands.
Be clear-eyed about the town itself: a casino construction boom transformed it in the late 2010s and much of the half-finished skyline remains. The province is worth visiting for what surrounds the city rather than the centre.
What to see
Otres 1 and 2 are the calmest stretches of mainland sand, about five kilometres south of the centre. Independence Beach takes its name from the 1960s hotel that still stands above it.
Ream National Park on the eastern side is the quiet surprise — mangrove channels, empty beaches and boat trips up the Prek Toek Sap river.
Most travellers are really passing through on the way to the islands. Fast ferries leave the Serendipity and Occheuteal piers for Koh Rong in about 45 minutes.
When to come
November to April gives calm seas and reliable crossings. From June to September the water gets choppy, sailings are cancelled at short notice and some island resorts close for the season.