Where it sits
Pailin sits in the far west against the Thai border, surrounded on its Cambodian side by Battambang province. It was elevated from municipality to province in 2008 and is among the smallest and least populated in the country.
Its recent history is inseparable from the conflict: Pailin was a Khmer Rouge stronghold into the 1990s, funded substantially by the gem and timber trade across the border, and its leadership defected under the amnesty arrangements that ended the war.
Gems and orchards
The province has been mined for rubies and sapphires for over a century, and while the richest deposits are long worked out, small-scale panning and digging continue. Gem dealers still trade in town, and buyers should be extremely cautious about authenticity.
Pailin’s red basalt soil also produces some of the best fruit in Cambodia — durian, longan, rambutan and mangosteen. The orchards are at their best in the harvest months around May to July.
What to see
Phnom Yat is the town’s landmark: a pagoda on a hill with a set of vivid painted sculptures depicting the Buddhist hells, and views over the surrounding country. Wat Rattanak Sophoan is the main temple in town.
Waterfalls in the surrounding hills — including Phnom Khieu — make an easy half-day, and the Psar Prum crossing into Thailand is a short drive west.
Practicalities
Accommodation is limited and basic. Most visitors come from Battambang, around three hours away, either as a day trip or en route to Thailand.