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Siem Reap Province

Ta Prohm Temple

The temple left in the grip of the forest — silk-cotton and strangler fig roots pouring over the galleries of a twelfth-century Buddhist monastery.

A monastery for a mother

Ta Prohm was consecrated in 1186 under Jayavarman VII and originally called Rajavihara, the royal monastery. It was dedicated to the king’s mother, represented in the central sanctuary as Prajnaparamita, the personification of the perfection of wisdom.

A foundation inscription found at the site records the scale of the institution in extraordinary detail: thousands of villages supporting it, and a resident and dependent population running to tens of thousands of people. It was not simply a temple but a university and a small economy.

Why it looks the way it does

When the École française d’Extrême-Orient began clearing Angkor in the early twentieth century, a deliberate decision was taken to leave Ta Prohm largely as it was found, as an illustration of how the monuments had appeared to the first European visitors.

The result is the temple everyone recognises: silk-cotton and strangler fig roots draped over doorways and galleries, stone and timber holding each other up. It is carefully managed rather than genuinely wild — several trees have been stabilised and some structures propped or rebuilt for safety — but the effect is undiminished.

Visiting

Ta Prohm is on the small circuit, usually visited after Angkor Thom. It and the Bayon are the two places where crowds genuinely bite, so go first thing in the morning or in the last two hours of the afternoon.

The famous tree-and-doorway compositions have queues; walking anticlockwise from the east entrance tends to run against the flow. A valid Angkor pass is required, and boardwalks limit where you can stand.