The far north-east: laterite roads the colour of paprika, a perfectly round volcanic crater lake, and forest that still holds gibbons.
Ratanakiri feels a long way from the rest of Cambodia, and it is — a full day’s travel from Phnom Penh, up through Kratie and Stung Treng.
Banlung is the provincial capital and the base for everything: Yeak Laom, a 700,000-year-old volcanic crater lake ringed by forest and clear enough to swim across; a cluster of waterfalls within a short ride; and multi-day treks into Virachey National Park.
This is also the heartland of several of Cambodia’s indigenous highland communities. Community-based trekking operators in town run overnight homestays that put the money where it should go.
Accommodation here is limited and simple — book ahead in December and January, when it genuinely fills up.
November to February for dry roads and cool nights. The red laterite turns to deep mud from July to September.
Around 10–12 hours by bus from Phnom Penh, or roughly 5 from Kratie. Most travellers break the journey at Kratie or Stung Treng.
A near-perfect circular lake, forest to the waterline, and a 2.5 km walking loop.
Two of several falls within 10 km of town, easily done by scooter in a morning.
Multi-day guided treks into one of Southeast Asia’s largest protected areas.
Small-scale zircon workings in the countryside around Bokeo.