Smaller, calmer and prettier than its neighbour. Saracen Bay is a two-kilometre crescent of white sand with nothing on it but resorts and palm trees.
If Koh Rong is the party island, Koh Rong Sanloem is where people go to read a book. Saracen Bay on the east coast takes most of the accommodation; Lazy Beach on the west is a 20-minute jungle walk away and catches the sunset.
M’Pai Bay in the north is the small, sociable fishing-village option — cheaper, more local, good for solo travellers.
The island is also the base for most of Cambodia’s dive schools, with sites around Koh Koun and the outer islands.
There are no roads and no ATMs. Bring more cash than you think you need and check whether your resort accepts card.
November to April. Visibility for diving peaks between December and March.
Fast ferries from Sihanoukville, 45–60 minutes. Confirm which bay your ferry ticket lands at — Saracen and M’Pai Bay are different piers.
The main beach — flat, shallow, sunrise-facing, lined with mid-range resorts.
West coast, reached on a short jungle trail. Sunsets and a single low-key resort.
Northern fishing village with budget guesthouses and a livelier evening scene.
Several PADI schools operate from Saracen Bay year-round.