A sleepy Mekong town where a critically endangered population of freshwater dolphins surfaces in the deep pools upstream.
Kratie is one long riverfront and a grid of shophouses, and that is most of it. People come for the Irrawaddy dolphins at Kampi, 15 km north, where boats take small groups out at dawn or late afternoon.
The Mekong population is critically endangered and numbers only in the dozens, so choose an operator that keeps engines off and distance kept.
Directly opposite the town, Koh Trong is a river island you can cycle around in two hours — pomelo orchards, a floating Vietnamese village and some of the best sunsets on the river.
Stay on Koh Trong itself for a night if you can — homestays and one small eco-lodge, and total quiet after dark.
December to May, when water levels are lower and the dolphins concentrate in the deep pools.
5–6 hours by minivan from Phnom Penh. Often used as a stop on the way north to Ratanakiri or across to Laos.
Small boats, early morning or late afternoon, 15 km north of town.
Cycle the ring road past pomelo farms and homestays; ferry from the Kratie waterfront.
A small hilltop pagoda with views over the Mekong floodplain.
The whole town turns out for it. Grab a plastic chair and a cold drink.